The battle of Gavinana, during which, on the 3 august 1530, the captain of the army of the Florentine Republic Francesco Ferrucci, was wounded, captured and killed (by hand of the enemy commander Fabrizio Maramaldo), marks a deep historical division in the history of Tuscany. It announced the fall of the sieged city of Florence and therefore the definitive return to power of the Medici family, thanks to the important role played by Pope Clement VII and the protection of Emperor Charles V, leading the way to the transition from the republican era to the Medicean Princedom, established by Duke Cosimo I around the mid-16th century. The battle, which ended with the conflict of Gavinana, also represents an important turning point for Pistoia's Mountains: it marks somewhat the end of a long turbulent period full of contrast between the various factions that were trying to control Pistoia and its territory and it marked the start of the long peace "of Cosimo", characterized on one hand by different forms of political and economical exploitation, and on the other by specific strategies for development, the most important being the introduction of the metal industry which was then to be established in several places on Pistoia's Mountains and with an operative site in Maresca.


 Francesco Ferrucci and the Museum of Gavinana
 
The figure of Ferrucci, protagonist and victim of the army, with the cunningness and disorder that led the troubled events of the 16th century, has progressively moved from a historical level to a more legendary and literary one, embodying the quintessence of heroism and pride, as opposed to that of treachery represented by the figure of "Maramaldo", who in the name of revenge kills a helpless man, "a dead man".
The legend of Francesco Ferrucci, as brave defender of the republican ideals of freedom and independence from the tyrant and foreigner, was later revived and celebrated particularly during the Renaissance and Post-renaissance periods, when the places touched by Ferrucci became famous for patriotic and laic pilgrimage. Ferrucci's name was even inserted in the Italian national anthem as symbol for the great feeling of pride. Amongst the famous figures that came to the Pistoia's Mountains to pay their respects to the "hero of Gavinana" were those of Niccolò Puccini, Massimo d'Azeglio, Francesco Domenico Guerrazzi, Giuseppe Garibaldi, Niccolò Tommaseo, Raffaele Cadorna and Ferdinando Martini.
To honor the figure of Ferrucci, a monument was erected in the square of Gavinana, started in 1913 and completed in 1920 by the Florentine artist Emilio Gallori. Following the celebrations of the 500th anniversary commemorating Ferrucci's death (1530-1930), the Battistini house where, according to the popular and iconographic tradition, Fabrizio Maramaldo killed the Florentine captain, was bought and restored. A museum and library were then set up in this house with the purpose of preserving important memorabilia, historical and artistic documents, such as weapons and armour, photographs and engravings, sculptures and paintings, brochures and books, flags and costumes of the "Giuoco del Calcio fiorentino" (The Game of Florentine Football). Between 1956 and 1957 the museum was once again re-organized by Renzo Chiarelli in different thematic sectors: the Weapons Room, the Room of Azeglio and the Battle, the Francesco Ferrucci Room, the Siege and Flag Room. (For information contact: the Public Library of San Marcello - Biblioteca Comunale di San Marcello, phone: 0573-621289).

 



 Dall’Inno di Mameli (1847)
 
(...) Dall'Alpi a Sicilia (...)                       From the Alps to Sicily
Dovunque è Legnano,                            Legnano is everywhere;
Ogn'uom di Ferruccio                             Every man of Ferruccio
Ha il core, ha la mano,                           Has a heart, has a hand,
I bimbi d'Italia                                      The children of Italy
Si chiaman Balilla,                                They are named "Balilla",
Il suon d'ogni squilla                             Every bell rings
I Vespri suonò.                                     Sounds of the (Sicilian) Vespers.
Stringiamci a coorte                              Let us join in cohort,
Siam pronti alla morte                          We are ready to die!
L'Italia chiamò. (...)                               Italy has called!



 The Mountain Government
 
The existence of a Captain controlling the Mountain territory and population dates back to the end of the 1320s. This figure of authority, ordered by the city of Pistoia, resided on the highlands surrounded by the deep gorges of the streams Verdiana and Lima in the fortress of Castel di Mura, of which little remains today. "The Captain was in charge for three months: he was given a horse and controlled 6 families, with a salary of 72 liras. His specific tasks included maintaining order in the villages under his jurisdiction: Popiglio, Piteglio, Mammiano, San Marcello, Gavinana e Lizzano and later a little Cutigliano. He had to monitor the payment of tolls and he administrated local justice with the power of issuing monetary fines up to 10 liras." (E. Biagini, San Marcello dalle origini all'età comunale, Pistoia 1992, p. 28). In the second half of the 14th century, the Captain's headquarters were moved to Lizzano, and in 1373, when control had passed into the hands of the city of Florence, they were moved to Cutigliano, where he resided during the summer months. Later, three different headquarters were established: Lizzano, Cutigliano and San Marcello, then reduced to two after 1512, when Lizzano was excluded. The headquarters in San Marcello were in the old estate of Lord Guidi, which are no longer there today.
 
 The Teso and the Grand Duke's ponies
 
As mentioned by Repetti in the 1850s, the royal estate along the mountain ridge between Crocicchio and scrub of Orsigna near Maresca, "was destined to the propagation of a new fir tree", and during the summer period was used as grazing land and for the breeding of the "royal thoroughbreds", which were moved to the estate in Coltano, located in the scrub of San Rossore, between Pisa and Leghorn. Since the 17th century, Pistoia's Mountains have been used to breed the Gran Duke's horses, as is still confirmed today by the various place-names, specifically by the "Casetta dei Puledrari" (Home of the Stable Boys), which was in the highest part of the Teso Forest (1200 meters altitude), which today hosts a hotel and restaurant structure, camping site and a ring circuit for cross-country skiing.

 
 The exploitation of wood and metalworking
 
One of the main activities of the Mountain of Pistoia was the one connected to working the iron mineral extracted from the Isle of Elba and brought to these areas to be processed and worked using the natural richness of the water ways and woodland. From 17 March 1543, after Cosimo I and Iacopo IV of Piombino signed an agreement, this activity became a true state monopole. Evidence of this can be found in the numerous architectural structures still standing today, in Gavinana (the Appiani building, later called Achilli, which today is the Information Point of the Eco-museum), in Maresca and other villages. The Eco-museum has dedicated a lot of research to this primary activity and has even restored some of the old factories and machinery for educational purposes.

 
 Roads, woods and pastures
 

The Florentine government always put great care and attention in the maintaining the good condition of the forests and woods of Pistoia's Mountains, specifically when the production of wood and coal became fundamental for the iron industry in the 16th century. All the mountain areas of the Grand Duchy were then placed under strict binding legislation, guaranteed by a series of inspections carried out by the Grand Duke's executives.
One of the first inspections took place on 13 October 1578 by Francesco Covato, master builder of the Parte (this was the magistrature which took care of the public work of the Grand Duchy). During the visit, a document was created: "nuova et riformata terminatione dell'Apennino delle comunità di San Marcello et di Cavinana" (new and reformed termination of the Apennines in the communities of San Marcello and Gavinana), complete with a map and today kept in the State Archive of Florence. The map, aptly illustrated, represents the territory between the Apennine ridge (bordering with Lombardy) and the river Reno, mostly in the communities of San Marcello and Gavinana. The mapmaker focused on the settlements and main road that crosses this territory, the "old Lombard road", which went from San Marcello, through Maceglia to the mountain pass Cancellino but he also focused on the forests and woodland: the chestnut groves (pasture for the wild pigs that fed on chestnuts), the open stretches of the woods of Turkey oaks and the beech groves used by the woodcutters to produce coal destined for the iron plants of the Grand Duke. The map also illustrates the pastures and grazing land and the "diacciaie" (snow reserves). The terminology used in the toponymy of the area, specifically created in relative regulations, was to help subdivide and distinguish the lands available to the inhabitants of the mountain from those reserved for the Grand Duke's industrial activity.

 
 
 
 
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