The historical meaning
 
Very often one thinks of boundaries as a line that separates two realities, be it states, communities, or other. An imaginary line, sometimes linked to natural obstacles such as mountains or rivers, and often linked to political and human events. In reality, as many historians as Lucien Febvre have taught us, mountains, rivers and forests, although they are dividing points, they are also "centres in evolution and expansion, small worlds with their own value and able to attract and bond closely men and places" (L.Febvre, The Earth and Human Evolution, Turin 1980).


The border which runs along the ridge of the Apennines north of the territory of Pistoia can well be considered an example for this point of view. It is of course a natural obstacle, which has divided something for at least the past 2000 years (the old roman districts, the dioceses, the medieval settlements or the modern districts of Modena, Bologna, Pistoia and Prato. However, as outlined by Renzo Zagnoni and Febvre, it is a boundary that was never really clean-cut or impossible to breach, but almost the opposite as the populations from both sides were always in close contact and had constant rapport also socially". (R. Zagnoni, A 200 year-long boundary, in the Apennine borders: perception and reality from the past to now, by P. Foschi and R. Zagnoni, Bologna 2001).




In many areas of these borders, at times identified in the crest pathways, thereby marking a watershed between the waters of the Tyrrhenian and Adriatic seas, or is in some way connected to the Grande Escursione Appenninica (GEA), a strip of the "Sentiero Italia" route, the natural obstacles really are insurmountable and display a tangible idea of an inevitable separation. Yet, taking a closer look, this is only the most obvious point of view, and by far the most important one in reality, as in almost any frontier, there are many traces and signs of continuity and contact between the two areas it separates one from another. Traces that one can still look for and find not only in the area but also in the documents left us in the archives and libraries by the inhabitants of the mountains and past governing entities. Thus, the cartographic history, which often - as in the beautiful tables of Luder which are preserved in the Archives of the State of Florence, published nearly 20 years ago by the Pistoia city hall - also have great esthetical value, present us a world, that of the mountains, strongly integrated and more importantly; influenced, by many common aspects: from dispersed places populated by mankind to the variety of woodlands and the fields, used as pastures, (L.Rombai, G.C. Romby, L'appennino pistoiese nelle vedute pittoriche di Giovanni Luder (1711), Pistoia 1987). So, the prospective on the borders, followed by different governments, end up with similar episodes and, more importantly, view the territory in the same way, with its landscapes, its rivers, and its pathways. (C. Vivoli, The mountiain of Pistoia during the administrative visits of the 17th and 18th centuries, "Nuèter", XXIX, 2003). The literature - from its folklore to its poetry and song - tells of a genuine world, that of the mountain folk, who had to endure grave difficulties and sacrifices, and were greatly influenced by seasonal immigration and poverty.

It is important to bear in mind, on this subject, the short stories and the places of Beatrice Bugelli, the shepherd poetess of Pian degli Ontani or the mythical lands of the Orsigna in "ultimo amore" of Tiziano Terzani, and his homage to this "wild" world, to these "strange" people, capable of "understanding the soul like no others can" and of "giving life, with only a name and a legend, to every rock, to every pond"; a people "without history" who only attribute their origins to a disperse company of adventurous soldiers or to those "illegal merchants who, in this inaccessible valley, and border area between the Papal State and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, slipped out of paying taxes to the Gabellette (a place having this very same name) and climbed the mountain to an impervious area called, rightly, Porta Franca" (Tiziano Tersani, In Asia, Milano, 1998).

But what are the most significant aspects that, in some way identify a borderline area, especially that of a mountain: the roads leading to the passes, and along these, the rest areas and the hospices, and, generally, the shelters for travelers, but the customs and other inspection offices as well, in our case, more commercial rather than military, given the neutrality of Tuscany, at least in the last century (P. Bellucci, History of a road: two centuries of the mountain pass of Abetone, Abetone, Abetone-Pistoia 1980; C.Cresti, The Tuscany of the Lorena. Territorial and architectural policies, Firenze 1987). As Charles Whickam points out, we are, in fact, facing a complex orthographic and idiographic system "geographically slightly disarticulated", in which the unifying element is represented exclusively by the distance from the city (C.Wickham, The mountain and the city. The medieval Tuscan Apennine, in ladnscapes of the Apennine, by C. Greppi, Venezia 1990). The orthographic complexity of the valleys of Lima, Reno and the other small rivers that flow in the plains around Pistoia have not held the city back from maintaining its control of a great part of the mountains, not only until the Florentine conquest in the XIV century, but, although in different ways, till much later, at least till the reforms of the second half of the 17th century.

This sort of control produced, in the course of the centuries, a considerable mole of various documents: from inspective visits to the state of the woodlands, which were so important for the timber industry, to construction projects and then infrastructural maintenance of the roads, from population censuses to the description of city hall properties, not to mention the regular descriptions of borderline visits which per done periodically by the offices of the frontier city halls. Visits to the frontiers, at the end of the 17th century when, after a stipulated convention between the Grand Duke of Tuscany and the Church State, all on the borderline was first described in the big border "termination", first on paper, with abundant production of maps and layouts by the engineers of both states and counterparts represented by the same, then on the land itself, using cylinder terminals placed at short distances one from another.

These very milestones, which symbolised the organized convention of the study group Alta Valle del Reno and the Società Pistoiese di Storia Patria in 200 at Capugnano near Porretta Terme in Il confine appeninico: percezione e realtà dell'eta antica ad oggi, represent the unifying element of this itinerary proposal which suggest to search for the ancient borders, preserving their existence and memory.
 
History : OUNT ABETONE AND THE ROAD OF XIMENESA
   
History : TOWARDS LUCCHESIA: POPIGLIO AND LIMA VALLEY
   
History : AT THE BORDER BETWEEN PISTOIA AND BOLOGNA:
              THE MONTAINS OF ORSIGNA
   
History : ALONG THE "VIA LOMBARDA" TO MODENA AND BOLOGNA
   
History : BETWEEN LUCCA, MODENA AND PISTOIA: THE ALPS OF THE THREE POWERS
   
History : THE “LAND OF SAN MARCELLO” – PISTOIA MOUNTAIN RANGE
               BETWEEN REPUBLIC AND PRINCEDOM
   
History : TOWARDS BOLOGNA: SAMBUCA AND THE VALLEYS OF LIMENTRE
   

 
Copyright 2006 - AGENZIA PER IL TURISMO
ABETONE PISTOIA MONTAGNA PISTOIESE
Tel +39 0573 630145 - Fax +39 0573 622120
email: info@pistoia.turismo.toscana.it